Dildo guide: what they are made of, how much really goes in, and how to choose

If you're thinking of buying your first dildo, or you just want to add to your collection, you're probably wondering what makes this toy so special. Dildos have long been one of the most versatile and popular sex toys, and they can give pleasure both internally and externally. They don't come in just one shape or size, so there's a dildo for every taste and preference. Whether you want something realistic, something with exciting textures or a minimalist design, there are almost endless options.

Penis-shaped objects are very old. In the Hohle Fels cave (Germany), a siltstone phallus about 28,000 years old and around 20 cm long was found. The researchers who studied it saw that it had also been used to knap flint, and it isn't known whether it had a sexual use. In ancient Greece, olisbos were popular among women, which shows that women's sexual pleasure was already valued back then.

Today the sex toy market is booming. Dildos, as an essential part of it, have seen innovations in materials, shapes and features that make them more accessible and appealing than ever.

There's a dildo for every taste, body and level of experience. Here's an overview of the main types:

The measurement that decides your purchase, and why two spec sheets can't be compared

This section comes from counting our own catalogue listing by listing, rather than repeating general advice. When we did this count, in early September 2026, we sold 394 dildos in this shop and opened every one of their listings, field by field. The result is uncomfortable, and it's the reason it's worth reading on: when you compare two dildos by length, most of the time you're not comparing the same thing.

A dildo has two lengths, and most listings don't tell you which one you're getting

The total length is the whole object, from tip to base. The insertable length is what actually goes in, and it's the one that decides whether the toy works for you. The difference is the base: the suction cup, the safety flare, the handle.

Of our 394 dildos, 104 publish a length stating that it's the insertable one and 103 publish a total length. 82 publish both, and in those the difference between the two is 3.5 cm at the median, with cases of up to 14.0.

And here's the big group, the one that matters: 174 listings publish a measurement without saying which of the two it is. It appears simply as "Measurements". Another 95 publish no measurement at all, and 75 publish no spec sheet of any kind. So the most common case in this category isn't a missing number: it's a number that's there when you can't tell what it's measuring.

The practical consequence is that 3.5 cm difference. A dildo advertised at twenty centimetres and another advertised at sixteen can be the same size inside if the first measures the whole object and the second only the part that goes in. That's exactly the margin between getting it right and getting it wrong.

And the number comes under eight different labels

If you've ever looked at the features table on a listing, you'll have noticed that the field isn't always called the same thing. We counted eight different names for the same thing in our catalogue: measurements, insertable measurements, insertable length, insertion length, total length, length, insertable and diameter. They aren't eight pieces of data, they're two pieces of data spread over eight labels, and some of them don't even use the same unit: there are listings where the insertion length is in millimetres and listings where the insertable length is in centimetres, with the same meaning and a factor of ten between them.

We didn't invent this, and it isn't a supplier acting in bad faith. It's what happens when data from twenty manufacturers goes into the same catalogue by different routes and nobody standardises it. We're telling you because it's our job, and because knowing it helps you read any listing, ours or any other shop's.

How to read a listing from now on

Three rules for reading any listing in this category, ours or any other shop's. The first: if the listing says insertable, that's the number to trust. As of today nobody writes our spec sheets: the system generates them from a data record for each product, with fixed labels, so when it says "Insertable length" it's because the data came labelled that way from the start. While writing this page we found 110 listings where our own copywriter had chosen that word, and they have been corrected.

The second, and the one you'll use most: if it just says "Measurements", you don't know what's being measured, and that's 174 of 394. Treat it as the whole object and subtract 3.5 cm to estimate what goes in. The third is no longer needed: packaging dimensions now have their own label.

Diameter deserves a paragraph of its own because it's the other number that decides, and in some ways it matters more than length. 119 of our 394 dildos publish it, almost a third, slightly more than those that say their length is the insertable one (104). If you're coming from other experience and want to size up, diameter is what to look at: a couple of centimetres more length is barely noticeable, while half a centimetre more diameter is very noticeable. The table that follows sorts both figures by material, so you can see at a glance where each family stands.

The same 394 listings, counted in early September 2026 and sorted by the label on the number they publish. The median difference can only be calculated for those that publish both, and it's exactly the margin of error you carry when you compare a listing that gives the total length with one that gives the insertable length.

The supplier's box disguised as a specification

Let's go back to measurements for a moment, because there's a case worth knowing how to spot, and it isn't unique to us: you'll see the same thing in almost any shop in the sector.

For a long time, 309 of our listings published a dimensions field that didn't describe the toy: it described the cardboard box it arrives in. A value like 330x180x66 millimetres is the packaging, passed straight from the supplier's file into a field that looks exactly like a product feature.

That's now fixed, and it's worth telling: today those 309 listings publish that data under its own label, "Packaging dimensions", separate from the product measurements. It's the same number as before, no longer in disguise. We're telling you because the pattern is still alive in almost any shop in the sector and now you know how to spot it: three numbers separated by x and in millimetres are a box, not a toy.

The giveaway isn't the name of the field, it's the format of the value: three axes and millimetres is almost always a box. A toy is measured with one or two numbers and in centimetres. It took us a while to work this out because in other parts of the catalogue that same field does contain the product, so you can't decide by the label, you have to look at the shape of the data. It's the rule our own count has used since today and the one we give you: if you see three numbers separated by x in millimetres, ignore them, they aren't about the toy.

And one consequence of separating that field, which you can see in the figures above: once the box stopped being counted as if it were the product, the real gap in measurements in this category came into view, and it's 95 listings with no measurement at all out of 394.

The materials on our shelves, counted one by one

Almost all the dildo guides out there say the same thing about materials: silicone good, glass good, PVC bad, avoid it. It's a table that gets copied from site to site, and it has an obvious problem when a shop publishes it: we sell several of the materials that table tells you to avoid. So instead of repeating it, we counted our own shelves, and what comes out is more useful and more honest than a traffic light.

The distinction that really matters isn't good or bad, it's porous or non-porous, and it's a physical property of the material, not an opinion about the brand. Silicone, glass, metal and hard plastics have a closed surface: you wash them with soap and water and, if needed, boil them or clean them with alcohol, and whatever was on them is gone. TPE, TPR, PVC, latex and synthetic skin have an open structure: they absorb, and there's no home process that sterilises them. The table below puts each family in our catalogue on its side of that line, with its median price and how much each one publishes.

Silicone, the biggest family and the default answer

114 of our dildos are silicone, more than any other family, and its median price is the highest of the large ones. You're paying for something real: it's the only soft material you can boil, it lasts years without degrading and it doesn't react with skin. If you're going to buy just one dildo and don't want to think about it any more, buy it in silicone. Its only known incompatibility is silicone lubricant, which damages the surface over time; with water-based lubricant there's no problem.

TPE and TPR, the second group and the one that causes the most confusion

82 listings, with a median price well below silicone's, and here's the catch: they feel very similar to the touch. TPE is soft, pleasant and realistic, which is why almost all skin-like dildos use it. It's also porous, so you can clean the outside but you can't sterilise it. That doesn't make it a bad product: it makes it a one-owner product, to be used with a condom if shared. With that condition met, a TPE dildo is a perfectly reasonable buy, although it's among the worst at publishing its insertable length: just over one in four listings gives it.

PVC and jelly: cheap, porous, and with information missing

Almost everything we had in PVC or jelly is no longer on sale: of the 32 listings in the table below, counted in early September, 1 is left today. It's the family with the worst reputation, almost always because of phthalates, the plasticisers that make the material soft. The standard advice is to choose those that declare themselves phthalate-free, and this is where we ran into a figure we didn't expect: that information isn't in the listing in a form we can count, so we can't tell you how many declare it.

In other words, the usual advice, as it's normally given, is almost impossible to follow in practice, and not only in our shop: if the manufacturer doesn't put it in the listing, there's no way for you to tell by looking. We'd rather say so than pretend the information exists. What you can do is the same as you would with TPE, and it works just as well: use a condom, keep it to one owner, wash it with soap and water after every use, and replace it when the surface starts to feel sticky or changes smell, which is a sign the material is breaking down. With that routine, a PVC dildo is perfectly usable.

Latex and rubber, and what the listing tells you

Some of our dildos list latex or rubber as their material, and it's worth keeping the two apart: latex has one particularity that no other material on this list shares, some people are allergic to it, and rubber is not latex. Latex allergy is common and shows up as irritation, itching or hives where the skin touches it, and in sensitised people it can be much more serious than a nuisance.

Since September the listing tells you when it's known: products containing latex carry «Contains latex», and those the manufacturer declares latex-free carry «Latex-free». In this family there are only a few of each, and for the rest nothing is stated either way: if you're allergic, check the composition or ask us before buying. And if you've never been tested but you react to gloves or to regular condoms, choose silicone, glass or TPE.

Glass, and why it has its own page

7 listings, a median price in the middle of the category, and a completely different experience: rigid, smooth, endlessly sterilisable, and it allows temperature play, which is the main reason people buy it. The borosilicate in many of them is the same glass used for laboratory glassware and it doesn't break in normal use, though it's worth checking it if you drop it. Its median diameter is narrower than silicone's and none has a suction cup.

The comparison between silicone and glass deserves more room than we have here, so it has its own page: silicone or glass: which to choose, with the two families head to head and three recommendations from each. If you're torn between those two materials, that's the place to go; this page is for when you don't yet know which family to start with.

And the listings that don't say what they're made of

109 of our dildos don't state a material we can identify. Some leave the field empty, which is an omission; others fill it with something that isn't a material, like «soft, durable material» or «phthalate-free», which fills the field and says nothing. When a listing doesn't name the material, the honest reading is that you don't know, and the sensible thing is to ask us before buying: for a specific product on a specific day, that's a question we can answer, even though a page about a whole category can't answer it for you.

Dildos in stock in early September 2026, counted from our live catalogue. «Price level» compares each family's median with silicone's, which is set at 100. Each listing is counted once, by the first material it names, so the rows add up to the total. «Boil-safe» is about porosity, not durability: a TPE dildo can outlast a glass one and still not be sterilisable.

Realistic Dildo Mr. Intense Neeson 27cm

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€43.95

King Cock Plus 3D Dildo with Swinging Balls

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€67.95

How much a dildo costs, and where the money goes

The first thing that surprises you when you count the whole category is how narrow the price range is. Between the cheapest and the most expensive of our 394 dildos there is a big gap, but the vast majority sit in a small band, and the category's median price is at the low end of what people expect. A dildo isn't an expensive purchase.

Material is what moves the price, and not the way you'd expect

Looking at the medians by family in the table above, silicone is the most expensive of the big ones and TPE the cheapest. That fits what each material costs and how long it lasts. What doesn't fit intuition is glass: it's seen as a luxury product, it's the material that cleans best and lasts a lifetime, and its median is below silicone's. If you want something that never degrades and you don't mind it being rigid, glass is the best value for how long it lasts in the whole category.

What's worth paying extra for, and what isn't

Within a single family, price differences come mostly down to size, finish and brand. A large silicone dildo costs more than a small one because it contains more silicone, and there's no trick there. What's worth looking at carefully is the jump in price that sometimes comes with the word realistic: dual density, which is a firm core inside a soft layer, adds quite a bit to the price and is a difference you can feel; the cosmetic detail of veins and colour, on the other hand, changes nothing about how you use it.

And one observation that comes from the data, not from opinion. We call a listing complete when it publishes the three things that matter: material, insertable length and diameter. In our sample, the cheapest third has 18% complete listings and the most expensive 23%: price doesn't save you from reading the listing. If you're torn between two similar products, the one that tells you what it's made of and how long it is inside is a better buy than the one that doesn't, whatever the other one costs.

Suction cup and strap-on harness, the two extras that really change how you use it

Of everything a listing can advertise, only two things substantially change what you can do with the toy, and both are easy to check before buying.

The suction cup

186 of our 394 dildos have a suction cup. It's the most useful extra in the category and the most underrated: it fixes the toy to a smooth surface and frees both hands, which is the difference between one position and several. It works on tile, glass and any truly smooth surface; it doesn't work on painted walls or porous wood, however much the manufacturer's photo suggests otherwise.

It's worth knowing that the suction cup isn't equally good in every family. A soft silicone base seals better than a rigid plastic one, and the weight of the toy matters: a big, heavy dildo comes loose on its own, however good the suction cup is. If the suction cup is why you're buying, choose a medium size over the biggest one.

Strap-on harness compatibility

There are quite a few fewer, and it helps to understand why: for a dildo to work with a strap-on harness it needs a wide, flat base, wider than the harness ring, and that rules out most designs. A suction cup can often serve as a harness base, but not always, and the ring diameter varies between models.

If you're buying both, the practical advice is to buy them together or check the ring size first: it's the most common mistake with this purchase and it's completely avoidable. And if you're unsure, write to us with the specific harness model; it's exactly the kind of question that can be answered in a minute for a specific product and that a general page can't answer.

What you almost never need

In this category there are extras that sound good and add little. Vibration in a dildo is one of them: only 21 listings declare levels or modes, almost none, because a dildo isn't designed for that and anyone who wants vibration buys something else. Water resistance is another case, though a different one: 86 listings declare it, about a third, and it still matters little. In a toy with no motor there's nothing inside that can get wet, so the relevant question isn't whether it's fully waterproof (submersible) but whether the material withstands hot water, which is the usual question about the material.

Three dildos that tell you what you're buying

One per material, and the rule is the same for all: among those of that material we take the ones that publish the insertable length, then those that also publish the diameter, and of those the cheapest one still on sale. A family with fewer than three listings doesn't qualify, because it doesn't represent anything. None of our own opinion decides the choice.

SILICONEEPIC NIXIE Dildo - Inspired by Water Nixiesinsertable 13.5 cm · diameter 3.5 cm · with suction cup  TPE / TPRGet Real Deluxe 15 cm Dildo with Realistic Feelinsertable 13.0 cm · diameter 3.0 cm · with suction cup  GLASSS Pleasures Crystal AQUARIUS Dildo with Blue Detailsinsertable 18.0 cm · diameter 2.6 cm 

Extra Thick Realistic Dildo with Balls Get Real Deluxe

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€27.95

Realistic Dildo Mr Intense Gary with Testicles

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€25.95

If it's your first one

Everything above boiled down to what to do, for anyone who has already decided to buy and doesn't want to read a table.

Start smaller than you think

It's the advice that's repeated most and followed least. There's one thing we can tell you with the data in front of us: the median insertable length of what we have on sale is set by the catalogue, not by your body, and a catalogue is filled with the products that catch the eye in a photo. There's no reason to take that median as a reference for anything. For a first dildo, choose below it and look mostly at the diameter, which is what you really notice: two centimetres more length hardly changes anything, and half a centimetre more width changes a lot.

Silicone, and that settles the material

It's the only soft material you can boil, it doesn't degrade and it has no contraindications beyond silicone lubricant. If you're only going to buy one, make it silicone and don't overthink it. If budget rules, a TPE one from a listing that publishes its insertable length is a perfectly reasonable purchase, on the condition that you treat it as yours alone and use a condom if it's shared.

Choose a listing that tells you what you're buying

Between two similar products, pick the one that publishes material, insertable length and diameter. Not because the product is better, but because you know what's arriving. It's the criterion we used to choose the cards above, and one you can apply in any shop.

And what you need that isn't the toy

Water-based lubricant, which works with absolutely every material on this page and turns an uncomfortable first time into a good one. Time, which is free. And for any anal play, a wide base or suction cup without exception: it's the only rule in this category that allows no nuance, because the rectum has no stop and a toy without a base can get lost inside. If the dildo you like doesn't have a wide base, it isn't for that.

With so many options, it's normal to feel a bit lost. These six criteria will help you decide:

If it's your first time using a dildo, the most important thing is to relax and enjoy the process. Before you start, relax your pelvic floor; this will help make the experience more comfortable and pleasurable. Arousal is key, so take time to stimulate yourself externally. You can start with your fingers to warm up. The idea is that you feel completely at ease before you insert the toy.

Lubrication is absolutely critical. If your dildo is silicone, make sure you use a water-based lubricant so you don't damage the material. With glass or metal toys, you can use any type of lubricant. Don't skimp on the amount and don't hesitate to reapply as often as you need during the session. Good lubrication not only improves the sensation, it also prevents irritation.

When you're on your own, there are several positions you can try. Lying on your back with your knees bent is one of the most common. You can also experiment with riding a suction cup dildo on a chair or the floor. Doggy style or even standing in the shower are other options worth trying. What matters is that you find the position that feels most comfortable and enjoyable for you.

With a partner, communication is your best ally. Talk to your partner about what you like and what you don't. Bringing a dildo into oral sex or foreplay can be very exciting. You can also let your partner control the depth and the rhythm, which can add an extra level of excitement and connection.

If you have a glass dildo, you can play with temperature to vary the sensations. Put it in warm water or cool it in the fridge for about five minutes. Remember, never put it in the freezer, as extreme cold could be harmful to you and to the toy.

For anal use, the dildo must have a wide base to prevent accidents. Always use a generous amount of lubricant and start with a small size. Don't rush; your body needs time to adjust. If you plan to switch from anal to vaginal use, always change the condom to keep things hygienic. Patience and preparation are key to a safe and enjoyable experience.

If you want to keep your toys in perfect condition, cleaning and care are essential, both before and after every use. It's important to wash your dildos, not only to keep them in good shape but also to protect your health. Before using them, make sure they're clean to avoid any risk of infection. After use, it's crucial to clean them to remove any residue that may have been left behind. This routine will help you enjoy your toys safely and make them last longer.

When you choose dildos made from non-porous materials such as silicone, glass or stainless steel, you have several cleaning options. Warm water and a mild soap is the standard method. For a deeper clean, boil the toy for 3 to 5 minutes or place it on the top rack of the dishwasher. An isopropyl alcohol wipe at 70% also works.

If your dildo is made from porous materials such as TPE or PVC, it's best to stick to soap and water. These materials are more prone to harbouring bacteria, so it's a good idea to use a condom over them every time you use them. Also, replace them as soon as the surface turns sticky, changes smell or colour, or cracks.

To store your toys, it's best to use individual fabric bags so they don't touch other materials. Different materials stored together could react chemically and get damaged. Make sure you keep your dildos somewhere cool and dry. Watch for signs of wear, such as a sticky surface, discolouration, cracks or a bad smell, which show it's time to replace them. Sticking to this routine will help you enjoy your toys safely and comfortably.

Questions about size and materials, with the figure first

The listing says 20 cm. Does all 20 cm go in?

It depends on the label, and the label is reliable. If the field says "Insertable length", yes: that's 104 listings, and that data comes labelled that way from the source. If it says "Total length", subtract: in the 82 that publish both, the median difference is 3.5 centimetres. And if it just says "Measurements", which is 174 of them, you can't know: treat it as the whole object.

Why don't you always publish the insertable length?

Because the supplier only labels it that way for some of its products, and from today we don't put that word on a number that arrives unlabelled. 104 of 394 publish it; 174 publish an unspecified measurement and 95 publish none. If you need the insertable length for a product that doesn't list it, ask us: we can often measure it or request it.

What's the best-selling size?

We'd rather give you a better reference than that: the median insertable length of what we have on sale and the median diameter by material are in the table. A first dildo below that median is the choice the fewest people regret. What we won't do is turn a sales figure into advice about your body.

Is TPE dangerous?

No, it's porous, which is something else. It can't be sterilised, so it's a one-owner toy, used with a condom if it's shared, and replaced when the surface changes in feel or smell. With that done, it's a perfectly usable material, and it's 82 of our listings. If that routine sounds like a hassle, silicone avoids all of it.

I'm allergic to latex. What should I avoid?

Since the materials table count, almost all rubber dildos have stopped being sold: today there are 2 listings that name latex, rubber or gum rubber in their material. The latex one warns you in the listing ("Contains latex: not suitable if you have a latex allergy"); the rubber one has no warning, so you have to check the material field yourself and, if it isn't clear, ask us. Silicone, glass, metal and TPE don't contain latex. Be careful when reading: some listings say "latex-free", which means the opposite.

Can I boil my dildo?

Silicone, glass and metal, yes, for a few minutes, and it's the way to truly sterilise it. TPE, TPR, PVC, jelly and latex, no: heat deforms them, and there's nothing to sterilise in a material that absorbs. For those, soap and water, dry completely and store separately.

Which lubricant should I use?

Water-based lubricant with everything on this page, without exception. Silicone lubricant damages silicone toys over time, and those are 114 of ours, and oil-based lubricant degrades latex and ruins condoms. If you're only going to keep one bottle at home, make it water-based.

Do I need a suction cup?

186 of our 394 dildos have one, and it's the most useful extra in the category, though not essential. For anal play, on the other hand, a wide base isn't an extra: it's compulsory, with or without a suction cup.